A visit to Shwe Dagon Pagoda and the former Arakan Kingdom – Day 3 (Mrauk-U)

17 Feb 2018 – Day 3: Mrauk-U.

Mrauk-U was the capital of the fourth period of the Arakan Kingdom until 1784-5 when it was conquered by the Burmese empire, leaving Mrauk-U completely devastated during the invasion. The kingdom then became a part of the Burmese kingdom. When the palace was burnt by the conquering army, the metal was taken to Mandalay, the then capital of Burma, where it was melted to make a bell that still stands in Mandalay. The architects and other Arakan scholars were also relocated to Mandalay at the same time along with a considerable portion of the people from the Arakanese population.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arakan

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mrauk_U

Today, the two (inner and outer) ancient walls of the city and the palace exist in a crumbled state with most of the city walls overgrown with vegetation. Around the city wall are stupas built by the kings on high points (hillocks) that overlook both into the city and outside.

After breakfast at sunrise at the hotel, I left with Mr Tun to see Mrauk-U. Travelling on a tar road that needs to be repaired, our first stop was at Mong Khong Shwe Du Pagoda, followed by Peisi Taung. While the former, a stupa, is still more or less intact, the later, a temple, is in ruins. Both Pagodas have images of the Buddha from the days of the Arakan kingdom.

After spending time at both the Pagodas, we visited the Kho Thaung temple (“Temple of 90,000”). From a distance, this temple resembles the temple at Borobodur though is shorter in height with about 4 levels. The temple is mostly in ruins, though a lot of the images of the Buddha are still in good condition. The stupa at the centre is intact with a shed built to cover the main image of the Buddha beside the stupa.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Koe-thaung_Temple

We took a short detour to view the moat, a part of the ancient city wall and gate from a hillock with a stupa, followed by a visit to Para Oak village and Alay Zee village where we watched a local lady make hand fans with bamboo by hand in the traditional way. We then took a walk on the ancient city wall to get a sight of the city inside the inner wall through the city gate.

By then it was time for lunch. A hearty local meal of fish cake, chicken and greens with rice was what we had at the main town market in Mrauk-U city center with the locals.

After lunch, it was time to visit some of the more famous temples of Mrauk-U, the Shai-Thuang (or Shite Thuang, “Temple of 80,000”, “Temple of Victory”) and Htukkant Thein Temple. Next to the Shai-Thuang temple are two more pagodas – Andaw Thein Temple and Yadanabon Pagoda – we spent some time at the former trying to photograph the images of the Buddha with natural light streaming in through the four entrances.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shite-thaung_Temple

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Htukkanthein_Temple

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andaw-thein_Temple

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ratanabon_Temple

Last stop for the afternoon was the Lay Myet Hna Temple which is just a stone’s throw from the Htukkant Thein Temple.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le-myet-hna_Temple

And while we waited for the Sun to set, we took a break to drink some Myanmar Beer with local snacks. The view from Ratana Sanrie hill was stunning, but the sunset flattered only to deceive with low clouds blocking the best part of the sunset.